This model is also heavier and more expensive than the standard model. For easy multi-pitching, many climbers may not need braking assist. For instance, to catch a fall with a tube-style device, the belayer must lock the rope off down by their hip, while also gripping tightly to the rope to keep it from slipping. The only real downside to the ATC Guide is that it doesn't include any form of braking assistance. Whether the weight is a critical component for you depends on a few things: whether or not you are climbing with your device on your harness, and whether or not you appreciate the "training" weight in your backpack. Le micro Jul et le Mega Jul d'Edelrid Apparaissent, sur le marché des systèmes d'assurage, le Micro Jul et le Mega Jul, par Edelrid. For rappelling, we prefer the smoothness of manual mode with a prussic backup, but like how brake assist rappelling is also possible. For climbers on a budget, and especially those that like to do it all, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. As more and more climbers transition to thinner ropes, this is becoming slightly less of an issue, but once again, added versatility in regard to rope sizes only increases the value of a belay device. 717840006630. We found the correct way a bit confusing since it seems to be upside down if you are used to a GriGri's orientation, and puts a half twist into the belay loop when used correctly. The GriGri+, Camp Matik, and Edelrid Eddy all have anti-panic levers. Some minors things with the mega jul: for older single ropes with some rope kink it's not as smooth as some other (well, non-assisted) devices I've used, not sure how the Smart handles these. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. The thinnest single ropes on the market today are only 8.5mm (! If you pull back too far or too quickly the device will stop lowering. OASIS. This category measures and rates how easy it is to catch a fall with a belay device. The Matik and Eddy locked up more than the GriGri+, but all require a deft hand that does improve with practice. When it comes to the passive and active-assisted braking devices, results were more mixed. In particular, it is easy to forget to switch from top-rope to lead, resulting in a frustrated leader as they get continually short-roped. These devices can also be hard to master for people with small hands, which may include children. The cam spring is a bit tighter, making it easier to pay out slack ATC-style, and the area on the back of the cam where you might hold your thumb to pay out slack is now lower profile as well, reducing the risk of holding this open when a leader falls. MEGA JUL (0) EN DE US FR (0) MEGA JUL. PRODUCT INFORMATION. The Mega Jul is rated up to 10.5mm, while the Jul 2 is rated up to 11mm, so this isn't a big surprise, even though ET claims these ropes are 10.1mm. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. When it comes to something you're likely carry on your harness, the Edelrid MegaJul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. We highly recommend checking it out if you don't like the way the GriGri feeds slack, or are curious about the other options out there. When a climber is yanking for rope, desperate to make a clip before falling, and the device locks up, being able to quickly release it can make a difference between success or an extra-long fall. We found ourselves most often belaying the leader in assisted breaking mode, although if the pitch is really easy and the climber is moving super fast, you can also just use manual. Mega Jul Sport rappel Just got a Mega Jul sport belay device and am curious if any one uses it on a regular basis to belay/rappel. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. Both of the GriGris are also now capable of handling ropes down to 8.5mm. Once mastered, this method proves far easier, and safer, than lead belaying with a GriGri. It does so by using an out of balance fly wheel on the inside that combines with centrifugal forces to trigger the locking mechanism above certain speeds. With a specific geometry for sport climbing, the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport has been designed for slicker belaying - including with thicker ropes - than the original Mega Jul to make it better for smoother, faster rope handling, but still retains the high-braking performance that the Mega Jul was recognised for. The low end of the price range is populated by tube-style devices, whereas the more expensive models are the active assisted braking devices. We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. Next, consider what techniques you already know, or what techniques or resources you have for learning a new belay style. It is possible to open this handle way too far, without a hand on the brake rope, and suddenly drop the climber to the ground. The passive assisted devices have some of the poorest lowering action. Because of this great design, its advantages include the smoothest paying out of slack of any device we have ever tried. WORK SAFETY. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. Let us know! VIDEO. The device is light, simple, and easy to set up, and double-rope capabilities increase its versatility. Of course, we pretty much always belay up the second in auto-block mode. He has climbed large alpine routes and big walls all around the world, from Peru to Alaska to Mexico to the Alps. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. He has also spent countless days perfecting his rock craft at classic sport and traditional areas such as Eldorado Canyon, Rifle, Smith Rock, and Yosemite, while authoring and publishing numerous guidebooks along the way. Catching a falling climber is only half the duty of a belay device; getting that climber safely back to the ground is the other. Lastly, we took into consideration the amount of friction in the system, which affects the amount of energy it takes to belay in this manner, with the smoother devices being preferred. Designed for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, particularly in alpine conditions. The function for the Mega Jul Sport is the same as the Mega Jul. This device works in the same way as the GriGri, but also includes a couple of clever over-rides for the most common errors amongst GriGri users. The primary difference is the support of a thicker rope. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. We hope the information provided has been helpful in your search. We begin the testing process by using each device for months in the field, and then finish up by comparative testing each device side-by-side, rating them on five metrics (catch and bite, feeding slack, rappelling and lowering, weight and bulk, and auto-block) based upon how they perform compared to the competition. It doesn't include any breaking assist that might accidentally lock but does have an emergency lock up feature that we were never able to trigger while simply feeding out slack. These twelve climbing harnesses have been designed... We pick the best rock climbing shoes for bouldering... We've weeded through dozens of climbing shoes to select to... After analyzing over 50 harnesses, we bought the best 12... Best GriGri Alternative that Feeds Slack Easier, Auto Block (Resistance Belaying a Second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. For those who are new to climbing or inexperienced with a GriGri, or who simply like having even more safety features, we recommend the GriGri+ instead. The sweet spot for a smooth, not too slow lower can be hard to find at first, but it's now much harder to drop a climber while lowering with a properly loaded GriGri+. Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Belaying the leader with braking assist requires learning the technique, which we found to be pretty easy, but also takes slightly more effort than belaying in manual mode. ADD TO CART . We spend lots of time staying up to date on the newest product releases, so we can purchase them and get to work testing. Rappelling can also be done in multiple configurations—either with the device turned around to perform like a traditional tuber or in locking mode, though the locking configuration was not as smooth. Lead belays and top rope laps on a sunny winter afternoon at Smith Rock. The Mega Jul is perfect for half ropes though. In the past 10 years, we've tested over 26 different individual models, with 17 choices highlighted in our 2020 review. SPORTS. The Camp Matik uses a unique "pistol" grip design, which does take some getting used to if you've belayed differently for years. Each device tested for this review was thoroughly researched before being put into use, and this often involves watching Youtube and demonstration videos to grasp the proper technique for belaying with newfangled devices. The engineers at Edelrid worked hard to solve many of the problems with the older device, and the result has quickly become our favorite belay device for multi-pitch climbing. Consider these models only for single-pitch routes or multi-pitches in combination with a two-strand device. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Déclinés du système de tube classique, ils permettent l'assurage d'un premier de cordée, de un à deux seconds de cordée depuis un relais, et enfin de descendre en rappel. If you want the most versatile option at a fantastic price, this is the one we recommend. That can be important in canyoneering or in general bushwacking where one may wish to … Some of the highest performing devices, such as the Revo and Giga Jul, are also a bit heavier than their closest competitors, forcing one to choose whether saving an extra ounce or two is worth compromised performance, or whether ideal functionality is worth a small penalty in weight. That's where lowering and rappelling come in. It also comes with a price tag that you would expect from a complicated piece of engineering. In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. Most multi-pitch devices do not have braking assist, but so many climbers love the braking assist found on their GriGris that they will carry two devices up a multi-pitch climb, rather than do without the added assistance. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter. A lead climbing belay requires more attentiveness and rope management skill than a top-rope belay. Designed with a specific geometry for sport climbing for slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes. With this model, it is easier than ever to "push" rope through the device, in the same way slack is fed with a tube style device, although the cam must still be overridden to feed out an armload or two in a hurry. BUY IN STORE. Answering these questions will help you determine if the investment in an active assist device is worth it, or whether you might prefer a passive assist device instead. It works, but to push up the end of the Mega Jul gets really exhausting really fast. Secondly, we assess for versatility, scoring models that can accommodate two ropes a bit higher. Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. Lowering was not intuitive, however, as testers had to reorient their hands and tilt the device back. While it has been a long time coming, the Trango Vergo is one of the most appealing active assisted braking devices we have tested. Belaying a second directly off the anchor is a convenient way to ensure a reliable catch and a comfortable belay during multi-pitch climbing (be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully, as this type of belay configuration is more complex and mistakes can result in death). The sun setting on central Oregon and our belay device review. The brake end must always be in control and lower than the climber end for the mechanism to engage. Seven of the devices we tested began with an automatic advantage in this category — the ability to rappel two strands. Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes you won't have issues matching it to … Our product experts have helped us select these available replacements below.You can also explore other items in the Climb, Carabiners, Draws & Belay, Climbing Gear, Belay Devices, Hardware, Belay & Rappel yourself to try and find the perfect replacement for you! First released in 2017, the GriGri+ has several safety features not found on the standard GriGri, hopefully reducing the risk of belayer error accidents. The Climbing Technology ClickUp+ requires using a tube-style method of feeding out slack but is very quick to lock up, and difficult to unlock quickly compared to others. For those who are confused, this device updates the GriGri 2, which is no longer being produced or sold but is not at all the same as the original GriGri, which it shares the same name with. About Us. Some passive assist devices are barely any more expensive, making them a compelling option instead. The lower arm now has a bit more play, making it slightly harder to simply open full.
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